Work smarter: Connect your Mac to an extra monitor

 The more screen space you have the more efficiently you work apparently. So why not connect a second (or even a third) display to your Mac? In this article, we help you identify which adapter you need to plug your Mac into an extra, external screen (or even more than one), and how to get everything set up.

While it’s generally easy to set up an additional screen, there are a few issues that might cause your display not to be detected by your Mac, so we will also offer solutions for these problems below.

It is also possible to use an iPad as a second screen – an option that Apple added in macOS Catalina and then enhanced in macOS Monterey. This may suit you if you don’t already own an external screen, but note that you do need a supported Mac and iPad. We look at how to use your iPad as a screen for your Mac in a separate article, along with which iPads and Macs support the feature. In Monterey, Apple added the ability to use one keyboard and mouse with two Macs, or a Mac and iPad, which could suit your new way of working. To find out more see: How to use the same mouse and keyboard with two Macs.

Another thing to bear in mind if you were hoping to add two external displays to your Mac is that while some Macs can support up to five additional displays, the M1 Macs, including the MacBook Air and 13in MacBook Pro can only support one additional display – although there is a workaround, read: How to connect two or more external displays to Apple M1 Macs. You may also be interested in how to use an old iMac as a second display.

How to connect an external monitor to a Mac

This is one of those things that should be easy, but because over the years Apple has changed the ports on Macs it can be difficult to know what connectors you actually need in order to connect a monitor to your Mac. That’s even before you have studied the ports on the back of the display to work out what connector is required there.

Luckily once you know what wire you need to connect your MacBook to your monitor it should be plain sailing.

The steps are relatively simple, but as you will see the first step is the hardest!

1. Identify which Apple adapter and cable you need to connect the Mac and the monitor by following the guidance in the Which Port section below.
2. Plug it in.
3. Open System Preferences > Displays.
4. Click the Arrangement tab. 
5. Do not select the Mirror Displays tickbox (unless you want the second screen to show the same content as your original screen).
6. Drag the illustrated displays into the arrangement you require.
7. A white menu bar will be shown at the top of one of the screens. Drag this white bar to the screen you wish to be dominant. 
8. If you want to mirror the display on both (or multiple) displays go to System Preferences > Displays > Arrangement and choose Mirror Displays.
9. You can also select ‘Show mirroring options in the menu bar when available’ and you will see a status menu in the menu bar making it easier to turn this off and on again.

The options are a little different if you are attaching a desktop Mac, such as a Mac mini, to a monitor as it doesn’t have its own display. If you are adding a second monitor to a Mac mini you will see something like this:

As with the options for connecting a monitor to a MacBook, if you connect more than one monitor to a Mac mini you will notice the white block at the top of one of the displays. You can click on this and drag it onto the display you wish to be the main display.

You can also adjust the position of each display to reflect how they are positioned on your desk so that when you drag your mouse from one screen to the other you know where it will appear.

If you have an Apple TV, or any TV that supports AirPlay, you can also use AirPlay to send a second screen output to your TV screen. Here’s how to do that: How to view your Mac screen on a TV.

If you are using your Mac with an external screen and want to close the lid on your MacBook read: How to use MacBook with the lid closed, stop closed Mac sleeping.

Which port has my Mac got?

As we said above, the hardest part of connecting a display to your Mac is working out what cable you need to plug into your Mac and the monitor.

The cable you require depends on the model of the Mac and the type of monitor. Apple has implemented quite a few different port types over the years, and your Mac desktop or MacBook might feature any of the following: HDMI, USB-C, Thunderbolt 3, 4, 2, or Mini Display. We help you identify which port you have below.

HDMI

There are a few Macs that ship with an HDMI port – including the 14in and 16in MacBook Pro introduced in 2021 and the Mac mini with M1 chip from 2020. HDMI ports are often found on TVs, making those Macs a popular choice for those setting up a media center PC.

Macs with an HDMI port include:

• Mac mini
• 14in MacBook Pro (2021)
• 16in MacBook Pro (2021)
• Mac Studio (2022)

You’ll also find HDMI ports on older Mac mini models and the MacBook Pro from mid-2012 to 2015.

Thunderbolt 3 (and USB-C)

Thunderbolt 3 is a supercharged version of USB-C, with a bandwidth of 40Gbps compared to USB-C’s 5GBps to 10GBps.

The Thunderbolt 3 connection looks and acts exactly the same as USB-C, and it supports USB-C, so you will be able to use any USB C-equipped monitor, or a Thunderbolt 3 monitor, with your Mac. You’ll also be able to use any USB-C cable to connect your Mac to your monitor.

• 13in MacBook Pro (2020)
• MacBook Air (2020)
• 24in iMac (2021)
• Mac mini M1 (2020)

You’ll also find Thunderbolt 3 on Macs from around the end of 2016 and onwards.

Thunderbolt 4 (and USB-C)

In some modern Macs, Apple includes Thunderbolt 4, which as with Thunderbolt 3 shares the same port as USB-C (and USB 4, which we discuss next). The port looks identical to the Thunderbolt 3 port (above) and is completely backward compatible.

In fact, Thunderbolt 4 isn’t actually all that different from Thunderbolt 3. The main reason why there is even a Thunderbolt 4 is that some PC laptops lacked the ability to support the full 40Gbps bandwidth of Thunderbolt 3. 

There are a few benefits to Thunderbolt 4 that Mac users can enjoy though: every Thunderbolt 4 port can support two 4K displays or one 8K display.

Macs with a Thunderbolt 4 port include:

• 14in MacBook Pro (2021)
• 16in MacBook Pro (2021)
• Mac Studio (2022)

USB 4

There isn’t a huge difference between USB 4 and Thunderbolt 4, and Thunderbolt 4 devices support USB 4. Thunderbolt 4 will always have a full 40Gbps bandwidth, while USB 4 starts at 20Gbps, but can also reach Thunderbolt 4’s 40Gbps. A USB 4 port can only support one display, while Thunderbolt 4 can support two 4K displays. Learn about Thunderbolt 4 and USB 4.

• Mac mini M1 (2020)
• MacBook Air (2020)
• 13in MacBook Pro (2020)
• 14in MacBook Pro (2021)
• 16in MacBook Pro (2021)
• 24in iMac (2021)
• Mac Studio (2022)

Thunderbolt 1 or 2

Thunderbolt first appeared on Macs in around 2011, then in 2013 Apple introduced Thunderbolt 2. The Thunderbolt port looks the same as Mini DisplayPort (below) and is backward-compatible with that port. If you see a Thunderbolt symbol besides what looks like a Mini DisplayPort, your Mac has a Thunderbolt port.

If your Mac is from 2011 to around 2016, chances are it offers Thunderbolt 1 or 2 rather than Mini DisplayPort, although the two are compatible.

Mini DisplayPort

Mini DisplayPort was announced by Apple towards the end of 2008. With an adapter, the Mini DisplayPort can drive displays that feature VGA, DVI, or HDMI interfaces.

For more information about ports, here’s a rundown of some of Apple’s different port types.

Which port does my display have?

Now that you’ve identified which port your Mac has you need to check the port on your display, we run through all the options below. You also need to confirm one more thing:

Is the port male or female?

You need to check whether the connection on the back of your display has female or male endpoints. The NEC MyltiSync E243WMI we used had a female connection, for example, so we needed to make sure that the adaptor we bought had male endpoints.

HDMI

HDMI supports up to eight channels of audio. HDMI 2.1 brings support for resolutions up to 8k and higher. HDMI is the most common connector you’ll find on the back of a TV.

As we noted above, there are a few Macs that ships with an HDMI port in which case you just need an HDMI to HDMI cable to connect your display to your Mac. If your Mac doesn’t have an HDMI port then you just need an adapter.

Thunderbolt 4 or USB 4

There are monitors, like the Lenovo ThinkVision P27u-20 that feature Thunderbolt 4 docking abilities. This port won’t look any different from the Thunderbolt 3/USB-C port.

Thunderbolt 3, USB-C, or USB 3

More monitors are likely to be featuring USB-C ports than Thunderbolt 3 ports, although Thunderbolt is faster and can take more power. USB-equipped displays are likely to be cheaper than Thunderbolt options, too. Sometimes you’ll find a USB 3 or USB 3.1 port, which is the same port, but the predecessor to USB-C.

Because the Thunderbolt 3 and USB-C ports are identical, if your Mac has one, you will be able to use a USB-C cable to connect the monitor to your Mac.

Thunderbolt 1 or 2

If you purchased the Apple Thunderbolt Display, which was discontinued in 2016, then your monitor has a Thunderbolt 2 port, as seen above.

VGA

A VGA connector requires a three-row 15-pin DE-15 connector. VGA connectors transmit analog signals.

Old CRT (Cathode Ray Tube) monitors were VGA but there are flat displays that use VGA – they just convert the VGA connector’s analog signal back to digital. This conversion from digital to analog and back again can cause degradation of video quality. VGA will carry HD video but only analog audio.

DVI

DVI offers a higher-quality signal than VGA because it’s a digital signal. You will see a marked difference when looking at HD video as compared to VGA.

A DVI connector has the potential for 24 pins, depending on whether it’s DVI-A, DVI-D or DVI-I, there are different connectors with a different number of pins in use. There is also a long pin which may be surrounded by four other pins (which are required for audio in older models).

Mini DisplayPort

If you have one of Apple’s LED Cinema Displays, introduced back in 1999 and replaced in 2011 by the Thunderbolt display, your display has a Mini DisplayPort connection, as seen above.

Best cable, adapter, or dongle for connecting a Mac to a monitor

Now that you have established which port your Mac and display have, you will need to find a cable to connect your Mac to the monitor. This cable doesn’t need to be from Apple, but it will need to have the right connections. Another thing that may be important to you is the length of the cable. It’s no good trying to hook up your Mac to a monitor if the cable or adapter is too short. Remember you will need enough cable to go from the back of the display to the port on the Mac. 

Below are our recommendations for the best cables and adaptors for connecting a display to your Mac.

If the number of ports on your Mac is limited, and if you want to connect an additional two 4K displays to your Mac, you will benefit from a dock. A dock will also give you more ports, such as USB, Ethernet, and card readers. We have a number of recommendations for the best docking stations for MacBooks, such as the CalDigit Thunderbolt 3 mini dock below.

Of course, a cable doesn’t have to cost that much. If you don’t want to buy a dock, you need to work with the ports you have available. Depending on what port you have on your Mac and your display, we recommend the following:

HDMI to HDMI display

As we noted above, there are a few Macs that ship with an HDMI port in which case you can use an HDMI cable to connect an HDMI display to your Mac, such as this Belkin UltraHD High Speed 4K HDMI cable that costs £29.95 from Apple US or $29.95 from Apple US.

USB-C/Thunderbolt 3 to USB-C display

We recommend Apple’s own USB-C/Thunderbolt 3 cable if you have a Thunderbolt 3-compatible monitor. It’s £39 in the UK Apple Store and $39 in the US Apple Store.

Apple sells a Thunderbolt 3/USB-C cable here for £39 in the UK Apple Store and $39 in the US Apple Store.

USB-C/Thunderbolt to HDMI display

Among other things, the Apple USB-C Digital AV Multiport Adapter (£75/$69) lets you connect a Thunderbolt 3-equipped Mac to an HDMI display. You will still need a separate HDMI-to-HDMI cable (such as this one from Belkin) to do so. Apple also sells a number of HDMI adapters on the UK Apple Store and on the US Apple Store.

If you have a standard HDMI-compatible monitor, we recommend the Six-foot USB-C/Thunderbolt 3 to HDMI cable from Uni. ($17/£16.99)

USB-C to VGA display

Apple’s USB-C VGA Multiport Adapter lets you connect to a VGA display or projector. This is an analog connection so it will not support HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection) content. This would include the HD movies found on the iTunes Store.

The USB-C VGA Multiport Adapter is available for £75 at the Apple UK store or $69 at the Apple US store.

Apple sells a number of VGA adapters (Apple UK or Apple US), including a USB-C VGA Multiport Adapter (£75 and $69) and a Belkin USB-C to VGA Adapter (£27.95 and $29.95).

USB-C to DVI display

Apple doesn’t sell one, but you’ll be able to find a USB-C to DVI adapter on Amazon, such as this Benfei USB-C to DVI cable (£12.99 on Amazon UK or $11.85 on Amazon US). We can’t confirm whether it works, but it says it’s for the MacBook, so we assume it does.

USB-C to Mini DisplayPort display

Apple doesn’t make a USB-C to Mini DisplayPort adapter, so you won’t be able to connect a 2016 or later MacBook Pro to the old Apple Cinema Display, or any other monitor that uses a Mini Display Port. However, you may be able to find a cable or adapter on Amazon.

Mini DisplayPort to HDMI display

Apple does not manufacture a Mini DisplayPort to HDMI adapter, but it does sell Belkin’s 4K Mini DisplayPort to HDMI Adapter for £29.95 on the Apple UK Store and $34.95 on the Apple US Store.

Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter

Apple’s Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) to Thunderbolt 2 Adapter can be used to connect to a Thunderbolt display to a new Mac. It costs £49 from the Apple UK Store and $49 from the Apple US Store.

How to connect a third monitor to a Mac

Theoretically, you shouldn’t be able to attach a monitor to a USB port, but a few companies have treated this as a technical challenge. The Matrox DualHead2Go and TripleHead2Go let you connect up to two or three external displays respectively. They do this by augmenting the standard DVI/HDMI video output of a Mac or PC with data provided via a USB 2.0/3.0 connection.

To learn if your Mac is compatible, check out Matrox’s Mac compatibility listing, where you’ll also learn the maximum possible output resolutions – it’s unlikely you’ll be able to run all three displays at 1080p, for example.

Diamond MultiMedia’s BVU range lets you run a separate external display via nothing more than a USB 2.0 port. By connecting one to a MacBook Pro, as one example, you could utilize up to three displays: one built-in, one via the existing DVI/HDMI/DisplayPort, and one more via USB.

There are also some no-brand devices on eBay and Amazon that offer the same functions as the Diamond product and are cheaper to boot – although be sure to check for Mac compatibility. Just search for something like USB to DVI HDMI.

All the above solutions are somewhat hacky. We haven’t tested any but we’re certain performance won’t be as good as with a monitor attached directly. 3D gaming is definitely out of the question and video playback in anything other than standard definition will probably be choppy. Still, to put your email or Twitter app on a separate screen, as one example, they should suffice.

Troubleshooting problems with a second display

There are a number of issues you may experience with your display setup. Here we address some of them. Let us know of any further solutions or problems.

Mac not detecting the monitor

When you connect your display and your Mac the display should automatically be detected. But what should you do if it isn’t?

If your Mac isn’t working with your monitor there are a few things to try: 

1. Check the cable – make sure it is properly connected.
2. Make sure the monitor is plugged in.
3. Make sure your software is up to date.

If the above doesn’t work, try these steps:

1. Connect your monitor and Mac and open System Preferences > Displays.
2. Press the Alt/Option key: This should make the Detect Displays button appear.
3. Click on Detect Displays: This should cause your Mac to see the external monitor.

Still not having any luck? There is one other reason that could stop your Mac from working with an external display: In the past, Apple has made changes to macOS that have stopped some third-party adapters from working with extra displays. For example, when Apple introduced macOS Sierra in September 2016 many had issues getting a second display to work with certain adapters. On that note, if your display won’t work with your Mac then the first thing to check is your adapter.

The external display is not working with a Mini DisplayPort adapter

If your adapter is not made by Apple, that might just be the issue here. Prior to macOS Sierra, it was possible to use a third-party Mini DisplayPort to DVI adapter with a Mac, but when Sierra launched in 2016 Mac users who were reliant on that setup found their monitors stopped working with their Mac.

The only solution, if this is the case, is to purchase an Apple adapter like one of those listed above.

If you have an Apple adapter and your external display isn’t working, try the following:

1. Disconnect your adapter for a few seconds.
2. Reconnect it and see if the issue persists.
3. Disconnect the adapter again and power off the monitor.
4. If it’s still not working, connect the cable again and power off the display.
5. If when you turn the display back on it’s still not working, click on the Apple logo and choose Sleep.
6. Wait a few minutes and then move your mouse or tap your keyboard to wake your Mac.
7. If that doesn’t work, restart the computer.
8. Try adjusting the display’s brightness or contrast just in case it’s turned down.
9. Go to System Preferences > Display and try selecting a different resolution.
10. If that still doesn’t work, try restarting your Mac in safe mode and then reset the display resolution to defaults.
11. Another option is to reset the Mac’s NVRAM and SMC.

DVI adapter doesn’t fit in the connection

There are a few possible reasons why the Apple Mini DisplayPort to DVI adapter might not be compatible with your monitor.

There is more than one kind of DVI adapter and the likelihood is the one you have is different from the adapter you are using. For example, you may require space for four analog ports around the flat blade.

If your problem is that you have two female or two male connections then the solution is to buy a male-to-female adapter.

Cable too small between the two devices? You should be able to hook up your adapter to the screen via a third-party cable. Just make sure it has the correct port type.

iPad won’t work as a second display

Thought you’d use an iPad as a second display with your Mac having installed macOS Catalina and found it doesn’t work? This is most likely because your iPad or Mac doesn’t support the Sidecar feature.

iPads that work with Sidecar include:

• 12.9-inch iPad Pro
• 11-inch iPad Pro
• 10.5-inch iPad Pro
• 9.7-inch iPad Pro
• iPad (6th generation)
• iPad (5th generation)
• iPad mini (5th generation)
• iPad mini 4
• iPad Air (3rd generation)
• iPad Air 2

Macs that work with Sidecar include:

• MacBook Pro (2016 or later)
• MacBook (2016 or later)
• MacBook Air (2018 or later)
• iMac (2016 or later, as well as iMac 5K, 27-inch, late 2015)
• iMac Pro
• Mac mini (2018 or later)
• Mac Pro (2019)

We have more information about using an iPad as a second screen for your Mac here. Plus, we run through What Universal Control is and how Universal Control works separately.

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Five Ways to Free Up Space on Your iPhone You Didn’t Know

 Not everyone wants to pay a premium to store stuff on their iPhone. Many people opt for the entry-level model with the lowest storage capacity figuring it will be enough. Unfortunately, this guesstimate is often incorrect. Instead of ample space, these iPhone owners scramble daily to find additional space for photos, messages, and more. Most people know how to delete pictures to liberate space. Five Ways to Free Up Space on Your iPhone You Didn’t Know.

Clear Safari Cache

If you browse the web on your iPhone, you may not realize how much space each site you visit takes up on your iPhone. Over time, Safari website data can occupy a surprising amount of storage. To free up this space. You need to go to Settings > Safari. Scroll to Clear History and Website Data and follow the prompts to confirm the removal. Next time you open the browser, you may be required to re-enter passwords, addresses, and other site-specific information.

Remove Messages Automatically

The Messages app can be a giant data hog. All the photos and videos people send you to take up an incredible amount of space on your phone. The solution sounds simple -- just remove the messages, but It can be a huge pain to comb through your texts and pick which ones to delete and which ones to save. Let Apple do all the work for you by automatically cleaning your Messages inbox.

Open the Settings app and go to Messages. Then find the Messages History section. Here you will find the option to Keep Messages for a selected amount of time. You can choose between 30 days, one year, or forever. Chose 30 days to keep your Messages as streamlined as possible.

Offload Apps

Most people delete an app when they stop using it, losing all the data that is deleted alongside the app. You don't have to take such a drastic approach to save space. Apple has the option to remove an app without removing its associated data. This ability to offload apps is great for apps and games that you often don't use. You can delete the app to save space without losing valuable information like your profile details or gamer scores.

To offload an app, you need to go to Settings > General and find the iPhone Storage entry. Scroll until you see the app section and select the app you want to offload. Select the Offload app and then follow the steps to confirm you want to remove the app while preserving the personal data.

Delete and Reinstall Apps

Another way to save storage space is to delete the apps you use infrequently and reinstall them only when you need them. For example, I am planning a backpacking trip this summer and have a slew of hiking apps on my phone right now. Once my planning is done, I will delete these apps to free up space and keep them off my phone until I am ready to plan another trip.

Delete Downloaded Media

Remember when you downloaded YouTube videos for offline watching or songs on Spotify for listening to music without a data connection? Yeah, I forgot about those media files, too. Take it from someone who has made this mistake in the past. Don't start deleting precious photos or important messages without first looking at your media storage.

To find colossal media files, you need to open the Settings app and find General > iPhone Storage. The resulting list will make it easy to find the offending apps. Once you know which apps are hoarding offline media, you can choose what to do with the media. Within the Settings app, you can offload the app while saving the data or delete both the app and data in one fell swoop.

Not everyone wants such a drastic solution. If you still want to keep the app on your phone, you can exit the Settings app and open the app directly. You can then find the downloaded files and delete them individually.

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How to manage notifications in macOS Monterey

 You've still got all the tools to manage Mac notifications in macOS Monterey, but the introduction of Focus Mode means they've been rearranged - and improved.

It's still brilliant that your Mac can tip you off when there's a new email, or message, or really anything that you need to know. It's still extraordinarily annoying when your Mac keeps telling you things you don't want to know — and seemingly does so every ten seconds.

The answer has always been to tame what notifications you allow through, and when. Previously, though, that was tied to Do Not Disturb — and now in macOS Monterey, we have Focus Mode.

That's a kind of superset of Do Not Disturb and in implementing it, Apple has moved some familiar notification tools to new places. They're all still in System Preferences, but now the general controls are changed.

Instead, the overall controls like scheduling when you will allow any notifications have been moved into the new Focus Mode. The options for each app on your Mac have stayed where they are.

How to set notifications per app in macOS Monterey

1. Open System Preferences on your Mac
2. Go to the newly-renamed Notifications & Focus section
3. If it isn't already, click on Notifications to select it
4. Chose one app by clicking on it in the list to the left
5. Set your options through the panel now on the right

There's an overall Allow Notifications on or off, which could be just what you want if one single app is particularly bothersome. There are some fewer brute-force options, though, which means you can cut down notifications from that app, without losing them entirely.

How to cut down notifications per app in macOS Monterey

Just under the Allow Notifications section, there is one for the alert style. Every app gets three options — nothing, banners, or alerts.

Even when you allow notifications, you can still set it to nothing so that you don't get that little graphic sliding in from the top right of your screen. That's not as counterproductive as it sounds, either, because you can still be notified in other ways.

With this alert style set to none, or either of the others, you can choose to:

1. Show notification on the lock screen
2. Show notifications in Notification Center
3. Set that red badge on the app's icon in the Dock
4. Play a sound

Each of these can be turned on or off. They default to on, though, so if you have

Allow Notifications

on for any app, that app will automatically have all four of these.

Do Not Disturb is now in Focus Mode

Focus Mode lets you set up your Mac — and at the same time, iPhone, iPad, and Apple Watch — so that you are only notified or interrupted in ways you choose. And by people you choose.

To get into it, click on the Focus button next to Notifications at the top of the Notifications & Focus window. The old Do Not Disturb has moved in here.

You can, as before, turn on Do Not Disturb. Now you do it by clicking on an on/off toggle, but there are still options for doing it on a schedule.

Turn on Do Not Disturb, and you get options about who can disturb you. By default, no one can, and no app can send you an alert notification. But that's too broad a brush for most of us.

So instead you can say that no one may contact you, except these people, or that app.

It's as handy but also potentially time-consuming as that. You have to pick the people, you have to pick the apps, and the default for everything is to block all interruptions.

This means it can take you time to set up Do Not Disturb in such a way that it helps you, but doesn't prevent your boss from calling to give you a raise.

Coping with emergencies

Your boss will call back. But you can still have the situation where you've blocked everyone using Do Not Disturb, and now there's an emergency.

By default, Do Not Disturb handles this by leaving two optional settings on. Allow repeated calls means that if someone phones you two or three times in quick enough succession, the iPhone will let them through.

Similarly, there are Allow Calls from... which lets you set up a whole group of Contacts who are allowed to interrupt you.

Choose your times

You can benefit more from Do Not Disturb by picking what times it is active. This is getting close to how you use Focus Mode, because, really, Do Not Disturb is one of those modes.

In the Focus pane, with Do Not Disturb selected, you can set any number of scheduled times for it to run.

Customizing your notifications

If it sounds like a chore to go through your contacts specifying who can interrupt you, it is. If it sounds like a chore having to go set up notification options for every app on your Mac, it truly is.

In practice, though, you will build up your fine-tuning on these as you go, and as you see how it can all help you concentrate.

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Is Your iPhone at Risk of Catching Fire?

 You’ve probably heard stories about iPhones unexpectedly catching on fire. A few years back, an Australian surfer couldn’t surf the waves or the internet because of his self-combusting iPhone 7. More recently, an iPhone exploded into flames while being fixed at a repair shop. Though the cause of the fireball isn’t always discovered, most often the culprit is ultimately found to be the battery. So here are five things you can do to lower the risk of your iPhone going up in smoke.

Don’t use a knockoff charger or cable

Don’t use a cheap knockoff charger or charging cable. Buy a quality charger or cable from Apple or a trusted brand like Belkin or Anker. Knockoff chargers and cables are not built with the same quality material and safety standards as the name brands. As a result, they are more likely to break, overheat or experience other electrical issues that could lead to a fire.

Charge on a safe surface

More than one iPhone caught fire while its owner was charging the phone in their bed. Unfortunately, a phone trapped underneath blankets or pillows can overheat and catch on fire. While in most cases, the fire is detected before anyone is injured or property is damaged. But A family from Wales was not so lucky. A teen in the house was charging her iPhone overnight in bed, when the iPhone overheated, caught fire, and burnt down the whole house. In another instance, a teen girl from the UK suffered facial burns when her iPhone began smoldering.

Check your battery health

You should periodically check the health of your battery to make sure it is functioning correctly. Go to Settings > Battery > Battery Health to check the capacity of your battery and turn on optimized battery charging that reduces the wear and tear on your battery. The lower the battery capacity, the older it is, and the more likely it will fail. Replacing the battery will reduce the risk of a battery bursting into flames, and it will extend your battery life.

Avoid excessive heat or direct sunlight

Apple designed the iPhone to turn off when the phone overheats for a good reason. This feature protects the battery and sensitive components from heat-related damage. As an added bonus, it also prevents fire. But don’t just rely on this failsafe feature. Be proactive, and don’t leave your phone in your car during the summer. Keep your phone in the shade and use it only in Apple’s recommended temperature range of 32° to 95° F. You remember that surfer who lost his car when his iPhone burst into flames? It was probably due to excessive heat from being in a hot car while buried under his clothing.

Check for swollen or leaking batteries

Have you ever pulled out an older iPhone from your junk drawer and noticed it is swollen? Please do yourself a favor and bring it to Apple immediately. A battery that is swollen or leaking poses a significant hazard. Store the iPhone with the defective battery outside your house and car. You don’t want to be near the phone or have it in your home if it bursts into flames.

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Steve Jobs Wanted the First iPhone on Verizon to Avoid a SIM Card Slot

 The story of the iPhone may have unfolded very differently had Apple’s engineers not convinced Steve Jobs to abandon one of his design principles.

According to “iPodfather” Tony Fadell, Apple’s legendary co-founder, and CEO as opposed to the original iPhone having a SIM card slot, as he felt it would detract from the device’s elegant design.

Fadell recounted the story to journalist Joanna Stern during an interview at a special event for The Computer History Museum, where he was promoting his new book, Build An Unorthodox Guide to Making Things Worth Making.

When the original iPhone was still in its nascent design stages, Fadell was heading up Apple’s iPod division and was involved in many high-level conversations among engineers and designers.

According to Fadell, Jobs was firmly against having a SIM card slot in the original iPhone. The oft-mercurial CEO told the group working on the device that “we don’t need another hole” in it.

[Steve] was such a reductionist. He didn’t want a SIM card slot on the first iPhone. “We don’t need another hole in this. Look at Verizon. They don’t have SIM cards. Why do we need SIM cards? We’re not going to have SIM cards on our iPhones.”

The original iPhone used a full-sized SIM card, and it was inserted at the top, beside the power button and headphone jack. This was before the days of even the Micro SIM cards used in the iPhone 4/4S, much less the smaller Nano SIM introduced with the iPhone 5. The original iPhone was also much smaller than the iPhones we use today, so the slot was conspicuous enough that it’s not hard to see why Jobs wasn’t a fan of it.

Jobs suggested designing the original iPhone for Verizon, as it was a CDMA carrier at the time and therefore didn’t rely on SIM cards the way GSM phones did.

CDMA phones were instead provisioned directly by the carriers through a process that generally required customers to bring their devices to a store to have them directly programmed by an employee or representative of the carrier.

Fadell and the rest of the engineering team knew that this would be a bad idea for the future of the iPhone. Although CDMA was somewhat popular in North America and parts of Southeast Asia at the time, most of Europe and the rest of the had adopted GSM almost exclusively.

In other words, releasing a CDMA iPhone would have effectively torpedoed the global market for the device. Apple may have been able to successfully launch the first iPhone on Verizon and a couple of Canadian carriers. Still, it would have needed to eventually create a GSM version if it planned to sell it in Europe.

Steve, that doesn’t work. Verizon is a special case. Look at the rest of the world. So we had to bring him all the cell phone data. Almost 95% of all cell phones at the time had SIM slots, and if we want to go to other markets, that’s what you have to do because no one had the technology for eSIM that now finally is out. But that took 12–13 years to get there. Tony Fadell

Interestingly, Fadell notes that Apple had already picked AT&T to partner with at that point, so the SIM card slot was already required for that partnership. However, it wouldn’t have been unlike Jobs to scrap that deal entirely if he thought he had a better idea.

In this case, though, he didn’t, and fortunately, Fadell and the team were able to convince Jobs that a CDMA iPhone was not the way to go. However, Fadell notes that it took digging up solid data to present to Apple’s co-founder, and they had to confront him as a team.

When you work with a highly opinionated person, especially when they can get V1 so right, and you’ve got to go against them, make sure you bring data. And it had to be a team of us, couldn’t be just one. Tony Fadell

History has proven that Fadell was right. As 3G technology emerged, SIM cards became necessary anyway, and many carriers shut down their CDMA networks and adopted GSM as it was easier.

Verizon was one of the few that held onto the older CDMA technology, even as it rolled out its 3G and LTE services. Apple eventually did release one iPhone without a SIM card slot — the Verizon iPhone 4 that came along eight months after the GSM version.

However, by 2011 when the iPhone 4S rolled around, even the Verizon version gained a SIM card slot. It wasn’t necessary for folks using the iPhone on Verizon, but it did allow owners to take their iPhones to other carriers and was particularly useful for roaming on GSM networks in other countries.

Ironically, the rise of eSIM technology means that an iPhone with no SIM card slot may soon be a reality. Somewhere, Steve Jobs is smiling.

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Apple Is Finally Testing USB-C iPhones

 Evidence is mounting that Apple is finally at least considering a switch to a USB-C connector on next year’s iPhone lineup.

Although rumors about this have circulated for years, information from typically reliable sources now suggests that it’s a much more realistic possibility.

It all started earlier this week when the venerable Ming-Chi Kuo said that the 2023 iPhone would abandon Lightning and switch to USB-C. Kuo’s information came from surveying his usual supply chain sources, which appear to be ramping up for a significant increase in USB-C components for next year.

Now Bloomberg’s Mark Gurman has weighed in with independent confirmation that Apple is conducting internal tests of iPhones with USB-C ports.

Gurman’s sources indicate that Apple has yet to make a final decision on whether it’s going to make the switch. There’s no way it’s happening with this year’s iPhone, which already entered trial production months ago, and Gurman confirms that it wouldn’t occur until 2023 “at the earliest.”

Not surprisingly, Apple is also said to be working on an adapter “that would let future iPhones work with accessories designed for the current Lightning connector.” Apple did something similar when it shifted from its original 30-pin Dock Connector to Lightning in 2012 with the iPhone 5. Apple also provided a Lightning-to-3.5mm headphone adapter when it removed the headphone jack from the iPhone 7 in 2016.

It’s too early to say if Apple plans to bundle the proposed Lightning to USB-C adapter with the “iPhone 15” next year. However, with the company’s penchant for removing as many accessories as possible from the iPhone’s box, we’re not holding our breath.

Lightning vs. USB-C

Such a transition isn’t something Apple is taking lightly, which is probably why it’s taken so long to come to this point in the first place.

A cynical take is that Apple has stubbornly stuck with the Lightning port to avoid giving up the licensing fees it collects from its Made-for-iPhone (MFi) partners. While that may have once been a significant revenue stream for Apple, the dwindling number of wired accessories that connect to an iPhone makes it hard to believe it accounts for much more than a rounding error on its books.

Money aside, Apple can also use its MFi program to exert a level of control over the accessory market that it couldn’t accomplish as easily with USB-C. While Apple could still require the use of its authentication chips for certain specialized accessories – more common ones like chargers, headphones, and speakers would need to be open for everyone.

More significantly, many long-time iPhone users are already heavily invested in the Lightning ecosystem, with an existing collection of chargers, docks, speakers, and other accessories that use the Lightning connector. A switch to USB-C would break direct compatibility with these. Apple’s USB-C to Lightning adapter would offer a smoother transition, but some users would still be upset.

We saw the same thing years ago when Apple first adopted the Lightning port, making it much more complicated the use Dock Connector accessories that once just worked with iPhones, iPads, and iPods. The only saving grace this time around is that fewer people are using these kinds of accessories today. Speakers are more likely to be wireless than using a Dock Connector, and wireless chargers have replaced charging docks.

The wired accessory market has become so secondary that many believed that Apple would simply ditch the wired ports entirely, forcing users to rely on MagSafe for charging and data transfer. While we still think that’s Apple’s long-term plan, the world isn’t ready for it yet.

However, Apple doesn’t have the luxury of waiting for that day when wireless connectivity is ubiquitous. The European Union has finally mandated that all electronic devices switch to USB-C for charging, and while the deadline for that hasn’t yet been formally set, most are expecting it to be a requirement by 2024.

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Best Apple Pencil Hidden Features You Should Use

 Your ideal iPad experience is incomplete without Apple Pencil and keyboard accessories. If you don’t plan to type a lot on your iPad, you are completely fine without a keyboard. But for the majority, investing in Apple Pencil is essential to enjoy a flawless iPadOS experience. Apple has packed the Pencil with useful add-ons to take advantage of the big screen. Best Apple Pencil Hidden Features You Should Use.

If you are still not convinced about getting Apple’s stylus for your iPad, the Apple Pencil’s hidden features below will push you towards hitting the buy button. Let’s talk about them.

1. TAKE QUICK NOTES

This is quite useful for Apple Notes users. Starting with the iPadOS 15, you can take quick notes with the Apple Pencil without opening the default Notes app.

If you take notes on the go frequently, follow the steps below to write down notes with an Apple Pencil.

Step 1: Hover the tip of the Apple Pencil over the bottom-right corner of the iPad’s screen. A pop-up menu will appear indicating to take notes. Tap on it.

Step 2: A quick notes window will appear to write down things to remember.

The good part is quick notes window comes with a feature-rich text editor and allows you to add tables as well.

There is only one disadvantage. The quick note trick is limited to the Apple Note app only. If you are using an Apple Notes alternative like OneNote or Evernote, you can’t take quick notes in it using the same trick. We hope to see Apple allowing third-party developers to implement the same in iPadOS updates.

2. TAKE SCREENSHOTS AND PERFORM QUICK ANNOTATIONS

This is another neat add-on for those who take frequent screenshots on their iPad. Apple has implemented a screenshot gesture in the bottom left corner.

Use your Apple Pencil and slide it from the bottom-left corner to take quick screenshots. iPadOS will open the screenshot editor with annotation tools like pen, highlighter, and others. Make necessary changes, hit the Done button at the top, and save it to Photos, Files, or delete the screenshot.

3. TAKE NOTES FROM THE LOCK SCREEN

The quick note gesture mentioned above is only useful when you have the iPad display turned on in the first place. What about taking notes from the lock screen? Apple Pencil has got you covered as well.

Turn on the lock screen and double tap on the Apple Pencil tip. iPadOS will take you to the Notes app to jot down thoughts. Those using iPad Mini (easy to carry around) will find this trick handy to get the job done.

4. SCRIBBLE WITH AN APPLE PENCIL

Using Scribble, you can convert your handwritten notes into text in any app. For example, you can open Twitter and start composing a Tweet with Apple Pencil. iPad’s Scribble function will convert your messy handwritten tweet into text to share on social media.

Similarly, you can use the same trick in any note-taking app or text field on an iPad.

5. MASTER SCRIBBLE GESTURES

If you plan to utilize Apple Pencil’s Scribble function a lot, it’s time for you to learn some of the neat gestures to improve your writing experience.

For instance, you can create a circle around the text and select the whole sentence, and scratch out the text to delete embarrassing typos. You can even touch and hold the place where you want to add a word and insert text.

If you want to add a space between two words, draw a middle line between words and separate them.

6. REPLACE THE APPLE PENCIL TIP

This trick applies to Apple Pencil power users. Over time, due to heavy use, you might have worn down the Apple Pencil tip. You may face issues with writing and especially drawing, where pressure sensitivity plays a major role in creating eye-catching designs.

Your Apple Pencil does come with extra tips to replace. Unscrew the current tip and replace it with a new one. If you have run out of tips to use, you can buy one from the Apple website for $19 (for 4 tips).

7. UTILIZE APPLE PENCIL PRESSURE SENSITIVITY

The support for pressure sensitivity separates Apple Pencil from other standard stylus on the market. While drawing a sketch, you can press for drawing thicker lines, tilt the Pencil for drawing shades, and more. In short, your Apple Pencil will perfectly mimic the standard pencil experience while drawing.

8. USE A DOUBLE-TAP GESTURE

Instead of constantly using the erase tool to fix your drawings, you can double-tap the surface to switch to eraser mode and wipe out the error. If the double-tap gesture is disturbing your workflow, you can disable it from the Accessibility menu.

Step 1: Open Settings on your iPad.

Step 2: Go to the Accessibility menu and select Apple Pencil.

Step 3: Disable the Double Tap Gesture toggle or slow down the double-tap gesture duration.

EXPLORE APPLE PENCIL ON IPAD

As you can see from the list above, the Apple Pencil isn’t limited to navigating the iPadOS only. It’s much more than that, and we can’t wait to see how Apple further improves the whole experience in the next generation of Apple Pencil and iPadOS updates.

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How to set screen time on iPhone and iPad for parental control

 Nowadays, children are spending more and more time using iPhones and iPads. iPhones and iPads are also learning and entertainment tools for children, and there are thousands of great apps for children on them. However, it also brings new challenges for parents to manage their children's use of iPhone and iPad and control their time of use. Today let's talk about how to set screen usage time on iPhone and iPad to achieve parental control to manage electronic devices.

What is screen time?

Apple has added a new "Screen Time" feature in the iOS 12 update. Screen Time is a feature that allows you to restrict and monitor the use of apps on iPhone and iPad; helps you manage the time your kids spend on iPhone and iPad to prevent them from getting addicted to games and control the length of time you use iPhone and iPad to prevent myopia.

If your iPhone or iPad is still on iOS 11 or earlier, you need to consider upgrading your system because Apple has added the "Screen Time" feature in iOS 12.

Setting a password for screen time

We can turn on the screen time by clicking "Settings" > "Screen Time".

After the screen time is turned on, we can set up the application accordingly. However, if you don't set a password for screen time, your child can cancel the restriction at any time, and we can't manage the length of time your child uses the iPhone or iPad.

• Click "Settings" > "Screen Time" and slide the screen to the bottom.
• Click "Set screen time password", and then enter a 4-digit password.
• Note that the password here is not the iPhone or iPad lock screen password, which is easy to forget and you need to record it.

Set screen time for individual apps

Say your child needs to use the iPad for Internet classes and also for playing games. The "Screen time" allows you to set the time and duration of individual apps.

You can manage learning apps and entertainment apps separately. It does not interfere with your child's use of learning applications, but also allows you to manage your child's use of entertainment applications.

• Click "Settings" > "Screen time" > "Deactivation time".
• You can set a deactivation time, or set the deactivation time by a week.
• Click "Settings" > "Screen time" > "App limit".
• Click "Add Limit" and enter the screen time password you set in the above step.

In the list, select the category, or click the category, and in the list, select the individual app.

Set the usage time.

Setting the screen usage time for individual apps separately and setting the usage time for individual apps separately brings you trouble in setting, but the one-time setting also makes your management more humanized, more rational, and more technological.

Always need a password

If your child knows about downloading apps and can download apps at any time. You may really need to do the above settings. Because after entering the password once when downloading the app, by default, you need to enter the password every 15 minutes or even without the password to download the app. How to set always need the password?

• Click "Settings" > "Screen time" > "Content and privacy access restrictions".
• Open "Content and Privacy Access Restrictions", if it is already on, please
• Click on "iTunes Store and App Store Purchases"
• Under the "Require password" option, select "Always require".

This will prevent your child from downloading apps without your knowledge. Of course, you need to keep the password for yourself and not tell your child.

Close the App Store to restrict your child from downloading apps

At the same time, you can also close the App Store to completely restrict your child from downloading and installing apps. Continue with the above steps.

• Click on "Settings" > "Screen Time" > "Content and Privacy Access Restrictions".
• Click on "iTunes Store and App Store Purchases".
• Under "Store Purchases and Redownloaded Items", click "Install App" and select "Do not allow".
• Then, the App Store on the home screen of your device will disappear, and the App Store will be restored when you select "Allow".
• You can also set "In-app purchases" and disable in-app purchases by selecting "Disallow".

Set content access restrictions

If your child often uses Safari to search for information or pictures, you need to set "Content Access Restrictions". This is because Apple classifies content.

• Click "Settings" > "Screen Time" > "Content and Privacy Access Restrictions".
• Click on "Content Access Restrictions" > "Web Content"
• Under the "Web Content" option, select the option you want.

Of course, you can also disable safari apps.

Disable Safari apps

If you don't want your children to use the Safari app, you can also disable it. You can disable (delete) and restore Safari by following the steps below.

• Click on "Settings" > "Screen time" > "Content and privacy access restrictions".
• Click "Allowed Apps", and the list of apps in it is all Apple's own apps.
• Select the apps you want to disable.

The above settings are our suggestions, you can set them according to your actual usage. You can also create a child account for your child. Through the "Family Sharing" feature, you can set up your child's Apple ID to make it easier to set screen time on iPhone and iPad and achieve parental control management. If you think the article is helpful, please forward and share it with us.

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How to set screen time on Mac for parental control

 Today, let's talk about how to set screen time on Mac. Screen time can effectively prevent your child from seeing unhealthy content when surfing the Internet, and screen time can also control the length of time your child uses electronic products to effectively protect your child's eyes and prevent myopia. It can also control the length of time your child uses electronic devices, effectively protect your child's eyes and prevent myopia. It can help parents control electronic devices and help you manage their children.

In macOS Mojave and previous versions the feature name is Parental Control, in macOS Catalina and newer versions parental control is achieved through the screen time of use feature, the purpose is the same.

Creating an account on a Mac

First, we create a dedicated account for our child, who will then use the newly created account to log in to the Mac to browse websites or use applications. The macOS version we are using is macOS Big Sur, and the steps to create it differ slightly from version to version.

For macOS Catalina and newer versions.

• Click on the menu in the upper left corner of the screen - System Preferences
• Click on "Users & Groups", click on "Tap the lock button to change" and enter your password
• Click on "+" under the Login option and select General Member for the new account
• Fill in the account name and password and click "Create User"

For macOS Mojave and earlier versions.

• Click on the menu in the upper left corner of the screen - System Preferences
• Click on "Parental Controls".
• The next step is similar to the one above.

Currently, newly created accounts are only used to log in to your Mac computer.

Setting up Family Sharing

Invite others to join your family, up to 5 people. And using Family Sharing is the best way to protect your children.

Each family member must be signed in to their Apple ID to use Family Sharing. Here, you can create a child account and invite your child to join if they already have an Apple ID.

Create a child account

• Tap Menu - System Preferences in the top left corner of the screen
• Click on "Family Sharing" in the upper right corner
• Click the "+" under "Family"
• Click on "Create a child account"
• Click on the next step
• You will need to sign a parental consent form.
• Click "Agree"
• Enter your child's account information (you can get a free iCloud email for them)
• Follow the prompts, go to the next step and click "Agree"
• Since your child is using your payment method, you will need to confirm the "Ask before you buy" here, click "Continue"
• In the "Do you want to see your child's location?" In the "Do you want to see your child's location?" setting, you can click "Set up later" if you haven't decided whether you want to agree to share your location.
• Complete the settings.

Related: How to set screen time on iPhone and iPad for parental control.

Turn on screen time

Set your child's screen time through family sharing

After you have completed the above steps to create a child account for Family Sharing, you can now set up your child's screen time.

• Click on the menu in the upper left corner of the screen - System Preferences
• Click on "Screen Time"
• Click on the drop-down menu below the avatar and select your child's account.
• Click on "Options" in the bottom left corner to open "Screen Time", which is turned off by default.
• Select "Set password for screen time" and enter the password.
• Complete the settings.

Set up separate screen time for your child's Mac account

By setting up your child's screen time through family sharing, you can manage screen time for multiple children's accounts more easily.

To set screen time for your child's account individually, you need to log in to the account you created for your child in the "Create an account on Mac" step above on your Mac computer.

For macOS Catalina and later.

• Click on the menu in the upper left corner of the screen - System Preferences
• Click on "Screen Time"
• The "Screen Time" settings are the same as the steps above.

For macOS Mojave and earlier.

• Click on the menu in the upper left corner of the screen - System Preferences
• Click on "Parental Controls" instead of Screen Time. Older versions of macOS do not have the Screen Time option yet.
• The setup method and steps are the same as those for Family Sharing.
• It is not recommended to turn on "Share between devices". It is not recommended to turn on "Share between devices" because everyone uses the device at different times.

Set screen time for parental control

After we turn on the screen time function, we need to set the detailed functions, including General Time, App Limit, Communication, Always Allow, Content and Privacy.

Deactivation time

Turn on deactivation time and set a certain time period to deactivate the device, which can keep your children away from the screen. During the deactivation period, there is an hourglass icon in front of all app names, and a "time limit" is displayed when you click on the app. How to set.

• Click the menu on the top left corner of the screen - System Preferences
• Click "Deactivate Time" to open
• In the "Set Time" option, select "Daily" or "Custom".
• Your child will not be able to use the app during the time period you set.

App limits

You can control the total amount of time your child can use an app by setting a time limit for one or more of the apps individually. If your child likes to play "My World", you can set a limit of half time for the "My World" app. Then your child will only be able to use My World for half an hour in a day.

• Click on "App Limit" and
• Click the "+" button below
• You can select an app, or a category, and adjust the time, daily or custom.

Always Allow

If your child is using a Mac online class and the app for the online class does not need to be restricted, then you can use "Always Allow" to add the app to the Always Allow list.

The apps in the Always Allow list will not be restricted by screen time or app limit.

Content and Privacy

In "Content and privacy settings", you can restrict games, web content, app store purchases, app installation, and deletion, password changes, and other operations. You can also restrict the display and search of adult content.

• Click "Content & Privacy" and set "Content, Store, App and Others" separately.
• For example, in web content, choose to restrict adult websites. Turn off allow friends in-game center, etc.
• Click the "Store" option, you can set it according to the actual situation. 

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Final beta release of iOS 15.5

 Several weeks after the release of iOS 15.4, Apple has begun beta-testing iOS 15.5 (and associated operating systems like iPadOS, tvOS, and watchOS). 

With iOS 15.4, Apple released what seemed like all previously-announced features and had nothing left to do until iOS 16 makes its debut at WWDC, but iOS 15.5 still has a few minor changes in store for us. 

The first beta of iOS 15.5 was released on Tuesday, April 5. We expect the development to continue for several weeks, with a final release likely in May. The release candidate of iOS 15.5 is now available for developers and public beta testers.

iOS 15.5 new features

Universal Control out of beta

Apple launched Universal Control in iPadOS 15.4 with a beta tag, meaning it wasn’t entirely stable. In iOS 15.5, Apple has removed the beta label, though there are no obvious changes.

Apple Cash card Request and Send

In the Wallet app, there are large “Request” and “Send” buttons visible when you look at the Apple Cash card.

iTunes Pass = Apple Account balance

iTunes Pass, a years-old feature for storing and managing your iTunes credit in Wallet, is being rebranded as Apple Account. The card in Wallet will function the same as before, showing the unused balance on your Apple account. The name just better reflects that it can be used for App Store and in-app purchases, among other things. The name change is not yet present in the first beta release of iOS 15.5, though.

SportsKit and baseball

A new “SportsKit” framework has been in the works for some time, with references going all the way back to iOS 15.2. While the framework is not yet available to developers, it is being expanded upon in iOS 15.5 to better support things like baseball scores for specific innings. Just in time for Friday Night Baseball.

Apple Classical

Apple acquired classical music service Primephonic back in August of 2021, and said, “In the coming months, Apple Music Classical fans will get a dedicated experience with the best features of Primephonic, including better browsing and search capabilities by composer and my repertoire, detailed displays of classical music metadata, plus new features and benefits.”

Well that stand-alone classical experience still hasn’t come to pass, but several references to “Apple Classical” have been found in the iOS 15.5 code, so perhaps a launch will come along with the final release.

Apple Pay additions

9to5Mac reports that the second iOS 15.5 beta adds support for the Italian Bancomat and Belgium’s Bancontact banking networks. Neither network is currently compatible with Apple Pay.

Podcasts

Apple Podcasts includes a new setting to limit episodes stored on your iPhone and automatically delete older ones.

How to get the iOS 15.5 beta

In order to download the iOS 15.5 beta, head over to beta.apple.com on the device upon which you wish to run the beta OS. Register for the beta, then download the profile.

After you’ve got the profile, head to Settings > General > VPN and Device Management to activate the profile, which requires restarting your iPhone or iPad. Once it has restarted and the profile is activated, go to General > Software Update to download and install the iOS/iPadOS 15.5 beta.

Registered developers can download the profile for the developer beta by visiting developer.apple.com/download on the device upon which they wish to install the beta.

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How to add a printer to your Mac

 Whether you just bought your first Mac or found a great deal on a printer, you’re going to want to connect the two. Printing PDFs, images, or documents from Mac is easy, but until you add a printer, you’re in a pickle. How to add a printer to your Mac.

Be sure that you follow the instructions for your printer for any necessary setup ahead of adding it to your Mac, such as connecting it to your local network or setting up Bluetooth. When you're ready, though, here's how to add a printer to a Mac.

How to add a printer to a Mac

Like most settings on macOS, you’ll find those for adding a printer in System preferences.

Step 1: Select the Apple icon and pick System preferences, or choose the System preferences icon in your Dock.

Step 2: On the main screen, open Printers and scanners. You’ll see any connected printers listed on the left. So, if you plug a USB printer into your Mac, you should already see it listed and ready for use.

If you don’t see the printer you need, select the Plus sign button at the bottom of the list to add it.

Step 3: You can then add a Wi-Fi or Bluetooth printer, a network printer using its IP address, or a printer connected to Windows. Select one of the sections below per your printer type.

Add a Wi-Fi or Bluetooth printer

If you have a printer connected to your home network or via Bluetooth, you can add it to your list in a few steps.

Step 1: Choose the Default tab at the top of the Add Printer window.

Step 2: Pick the printer in the list or use the Search box at the top to locate it.

Step 3: Enter a name and, optionally, a location for the printer.

Open the Use drop-down box to pick the software for your printer, or choose Select software to find it in the list.

Step 4: Select Add.

Add a network printer with its IP address

If you have a network printer but it does not appear in the list of available options, you can add it using its IP address.

Step 1: Choose the IP tab at the top of the Add Printer window.

Step 2: Enter the following details for the printer:

• Address: Enter the IP address or hostname for the printer.
• Protocol: Choose the protocol that your printer supports, such as AirPrint, Internet Printing Protocol, or another option.
• Queue: If you have a queue name for your printer, enter it here. If not, check with your network administrator or leave it blank.

Step 3: As with the above printer types, enter a name and (optionally) a location, then choose the software from the Use drop-down list.

Step 4: Select Add.

Add a printer connected to Windows

If you plan to use a printer connected to a Windows computer, be sure that the printer is set up for sharing. Obtain the workgroup name along with the username and password if required.

Step 1: Choose the Windows tab at the top of the Add Printer window.

Step 2: Select Workgroup on the left, and then pick the corresponding name to the right for the print server. If prompted, enter the username and password.

Step 3: Enter a name, optionally add a location and then choose the correct software from the Use drop-down list.

Step 4: Select Add.

Finish setting up the printer

Once you successfully add your printer to the list, it should be ready to use. You can, however, adjust more settings if you like.

To set the default printer and paper size, use the drop-down lists at the bottom of the Printers and scanners window.

For additional settings, double-click the printer in the list and then pick Settings. You can view options for checking supply levels, using generic printer features, and accessing the printer web page. The settings may vary depending on your specific printer.

If you also own one of Apple’s mobile devices, learn how to print from your iPhone or iPad, too!

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What Is the Best iPhone for Kids?

 Getting a phone for your kids is fast becoming a rite of passage that ranks highly alongside other adolescent milestones like learning to drive. Kids are more active than ever, and it is essential that you have a way to contact them, and they have a way to contact you. What Is the Best iPhone for Kids?

However, phones are expensive, and you want to ensure that you are not throwing good money after bad. So here are three options to consider as you look for the best iPhone for your child.

1. The iPhone SE (2020)

The 2020 iPhone SE is an excellent choice if you are getting your child their first iPhone. Whether you buy it outright or spread the cost over installments, the $399 price tag is affordable for most families.

In terms of performance, the iPhone SE is no slouch. It has the same A13 processor that was used in the iPhone 11 Pro, so it's fast and capable of running all the apps and games from the store. The 4.7-inch screen isn't as big as the ones you will find on budget Android phones, but what it lacks in size, it makes up for in quality with True Tone and a wide color gamut.

The 12MP rear camera shoots 4K video and can blur the background of a photo with the iPhone's Portrait Mode. The IP67 rating means the iPhone SE is splash, water, and dust resistant and capable of surviving 30 minutes while submerged in 1 meter of water.

The battery life is also good. The SE is rated for up to 13 hours of video playback and can be charged to 50% in 30 minutes (when you use a 20W charger). Wireless Qi chargers are another option for charging if you need them.

All of this makes the iPhone SE (2020) an easy contender for the best iPhone for kids. However, it's not the only option.

2. Last Year's iPhone Is Hard to Beat

I have long believed that the best iPhone is last year's iPhone. So, whether you are getting your child their first iPhone or upgrading from an older device, it's worth remembering that those older models are still sold by most carriers.

Why should you consider an older model? The truth is, smartphones have evolved to the extent that it's getting harder to spot those year-over-year improvements that Apple works so hard to highlight. Last year's iPhone did not turn into a bad phone overnight when this year's phone was released.

Sure, they might not have the latest and greatest features, but older iPhones are still iPhones which mean they are secure, reliable, and eligible for at least five years of future software updates to make sure they stay that way.

Check with your carrier to see what models they sell, or explore some of the reputable retailers who sell refurbished iPhones. There is a bargain to be had if you shop for older iPhone models. Do your research and reap the rewards.

3. Your iPhone Is the Best iPhone for Kids!

I know you might be skeptical, but hear me out. Your iPhone is an excellent option for your child, and for lots of people, it truly is the best iPhone for kids. If it is in decent shape, you know that it works well, and your child is probably very familiar with how it works.

If you've had it for a little while, you can take your iPhone to any authorized Apple repair shop and have the battery replaced for $49–69, depending on the model you own. This will give it a new lease of life and extend its usefulness for years to come.

Of course, the best part about giving your iPhone to your child is that you can get a new phone for yourself! Most carriers will have no problem moving your phone to a different line on your family plan when you buy a new phone.

If your phone is still relatively new or you don't want to give it up, consider giving your child your old phone. Most people keep these in a drawer as a backup in case you drop or break the one you are currently using. If you switch out the battery and buy a new case, it will be as good as new again.

An iPhone for All Seasons

Clearly, there are more iPhones to choose from than the ones listed above. Apple has been increasing the number of phones they have been making each year in an attempt to have at least one phone in their lineup for each type of customer they can think of. Your kids are part of that equation so take advantage of the options that are available and make a choice that makes sense for you and your family.

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Where Are iPhone Photos Stored?

If you have recently switched from Android or are buying your first smartphone, it's reasonable to ask where iPhone photos are stored. After all, a major reason people buy phones these days is the camera. Where Are iPhone Photos Stored?

An iPhone handles photos a little differently from an Android phone, so in this quick guide, we will look at where they are stored on the phone and how to back them up so you don't lose those precious memories.

The iPhone Photos App

The Apple Photos app is the default storage place for all the photos and videos that you take with the Camera app on your iPhone. The Photos app comes pre-installed on all iPhones, so everyone can access it.

Because of the importance of this app, it's impossible to delete it from your iPhone. If you can't find the Photos app, unlock your iPhone, swipe downwards on your home screen with one finger, and use the search bar to look for the Photos app.

How Are Photos Organized?

The Photos app is organized in a few different ways, but a good place to start is with the Albums tab. Here you will find that Apple has automatically grouped some of your photos and videos for you.

• Tap Recents to see your most recent photos and videos
• Tap People to see photos that are grouped by subjects
• Tap Places to see the location of your photos on a map
• Scroll down and tap Videos to see all your video recordings

Are iPhone Photos Automatically Backed Up to iCloud?

Most iPhone users have their photos backed up to iCloud in case they lose or damage their iPhone. This is made easier because all Apple accounts come with 5GB of free iCloud storage.

You can use iCloud to back up your photos, videos, and other documents. However, depending on how your iPhone is configured, it may not back up your photos to iCloud automatically. Here's how to check.

1. Open the Settings App
2. Tap on your name at the top of the screen
3. Tap iCloud
4. Tap Photos
5. Make sure that iCloud Photos is enabled

If you turn on iCloud Photos, and you have more than 5GB of photos and/or videos on your iPhone, you will be prompted to upgrade your iCloud storage to accommodate all the photos that you want to back up.

What Photos Are On iCloud?

If you are curious as to which of your iPhone photos are on iCloud, you can see everything that has been backed up by logging in to your iCloud Photo Library on the web. Here's how that works.

1. Navigate to icloud.com on an iPad or laptop computer
2. Log in with your Apple ID username (email address) and password
3. Click Photos to see all the images that have been backed up to iCloud

If you don't see any photos here, you need to enable iCloud Photos on your iPhone to begin the process of backing up your photos to the cloud, (see above).

If you only see some of your photos here, be patient. It can take a few days for your iPhone to successfully back up everything to iCloud if you have only just enabled it. Check again in a few days to see if it has caught up.

Can iPhone Photos Be Backed Up to Google?

If you prefer, you can backup your iPhone photos to Google Photos. For those who have recently switched from an Android phone to an iPhone, this could be a good solution for keeping all your images and videos in one place. Here's how you set that up.

1. Download the Google Photos app for iPhone
2. Open the app and log in with your Google account
3. Tap your profile image in the top right-hand corner of the screen
4. Choose Photos Settings
5. Tap Backup and Sync, and enable it to begin backing up to Google Photos
6. If prompted, give Google permission to access your Photo Library

Note that if you start using the Google Photos app for backing up your iPhone photos, a local copy of your photos and videos will remain on your iPhone in the Apple Photos app until you choose to delete them.

It's a Snap!

Now that you know where iPhone photos are stored, you can concentrate on the fun part - taking photos! The iPhone has a great camera for taking pictures, so get out there and make some new memories.

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How to transfer photos from iPhone to a Windows PC

 You might think it's more difficult to transfer photos from iPhone to a Windows computer than to a Mac, and you'd technically be right. But that doesn't mean it's impossible — in fact far from it. How to transfer photos from iPhone to a Windows PC?

We've all seen the smug face Apple users pull when they seamlessly AirDrop files from their iPhone onto a nearby Mac or iPad. As an Apple user myself, believe me, I've pulled that face too. But while it's true that the Apple ecosystem works beautifully for quickly sharing things via AirDrop or AirPlay, that doesn't mean you need all Apple tech to simply get something off your iPhone. 

I own and use two Apple computers, so readily admit that M1 Macs and MacBooks are among the best computers and best laptops out there. But I also have three Windows PCs, one being the machine on which I do the bulk of my photo editing, so it's often helpful — nay, necessary — to be able to transfer large numbers of photos from my phone to my PC quickly. This is especially true given the Wi-Fi coverage in my house sucks, meaning uploading images to a cloud service is rarely viable. 

If you've ever been in a similar situation, you'll want to know how to transfer photos from iPhone to a Windows computer. Read on to find out how you do it.

How to transfer photos from iPhone to a Windows computer

1. Unlock your iPhone and connect it to your Windows PC using a cable. A popup on your iPhone screen will appear, asking you to allow the PC to access photos and videos. Tap Allow.

2. On your PC, a notification popup will appear in the bottom right of the screen. Click the popup.

3. A menu will appear in the top right of your screen, asking you to choose what to do with the device. Click Import photos and videos.

4. The Photos app will open, with an Import items window. Select the images you want to import from your iPhone's Camera Roll by clicking on each image's tile until it is highlighted blue and features a blue tick in the top right corner. Change the import destination to where you want to save the images on your PC. Then click the Import button.

Alternatively, click the Select dropdown and choose a predefined set of photos to import, such as all photos since the last import, or the entire photos library.

5. Once the import is complete, click Ok on the popup.

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About Apple Watch 8 rumors: new features, release date history, and price

 The Apple Watch rumors suggest that its release date is on track for this fall, but as of today, it won’t come with blood sugar and blood pressure monitors that were part of a series of Apple Watch leaks previously. They are, however, being tested at Apple. About Apple Watch 8 rumors: new features, release date history, and price.

The Apple Watch 8, expected to be released on September 23, 2022, may share the same launch event one-and-a-half weeks earlier as the iPhone 14 release date news Apple has a long history of announcing its new smartphone – and often its new Apple Watch – during the second full week of September at 1pm ET and making it available in stores the Friday of the next week (the third Friday of a full week in September).

There are going to be three Apple Watch 8 versions this time around: Apple Watch SE 2022, and the sporty Apple Watch Rugged Edition. But the latest Apple Watch 8 news shows that testing of the blood-pressure monitor has hit a snag, writes Bloomberg’s ace reporter on the Apple beat Mark Gurman.

Why trust my Apple Watch 8 analysis?

I’ve reviewed, tested, or owned every Apple Watch since the original Apple Watch launched in April 2015. So news coverage of the Apple Watch 8 is nothing new to me and I can tell which rumors seem accurate and which seem far-fetched.

I have also tested rival smartwatches from Samsung and fitness trackers from Fitbit, which often launch novel tech features ahead of Apple. The blood pressure monitor, for example, is already in the Samsung Galaxy Watch 4, as I’ll explain below. So I’m fully versed in the smartwatch space to write Apple Watch 8 news.

Apple Watch 8 release date history

The Apple Watch 8 release date would be harder to pin down if it wasn’t for Apple’s long history of launching a new Apple Watch every September since the Apple Watch Series 2, with the expectation of the Apple Watch 7, which faced delays and came out in October instead. So far, Apple Watch 8 rumors don’t indicate a delay.

• Apple Watch 1 release date: April 24, 2015
• Apple Watch 2 release date: September 12, 2016
• Apple Watch 3 release date: September 22, 2017
• Apple Watch 4 release date: September 21, 2018
• Apple Watch 5 release date: September 20, 2019
• Apple Watch 6 release date: September 18, 2020
• Apple Watch 7 release date: October 15, 2021

The Apple Watch release date history indicates that September 23 is the most likely release date. With no reporting about Apple Watch delays so far, we’re on track.

Apple Watch 8 price

There’s no word on an Apple Watch 8 price increase in the report. The current Apple Watch 7 starts at $399 and the Apple Watch SE starts at $279. The Apple Watch 3 hangs on at $199 as of today, April 19, but that may end on September 23, 2022.

My retail sources – the same insiders who provide me PS5 restock information – expect Apple to discontinue the Series 3 as soon we have an Apple Watch 8 launch date. Supply of the $199 Apple Watch should dwindle leading up to the fall. The Apple Watch SE 2 should take its place as the lowest-priced option.

No Apple Watch 8 blood pressure monitor

The Apple Watch blood-pressure sensor – said to be four years in development – won’t be ready until at least 2024, meaning it may be an Apple Watch 9 feature, with the caveat that the sensor could slip to a further date in 2025.

Apple’s biggest rivals in the smartwatch space, Samsung and Fitbit, are further along today. I tested the Samsung Galaxy Watch 4 blood pressure monitor seven months ago (and Galaxy Watch 3 before that) but it requires frequent calibration to reduce unpredictable readouts. This is likely what Apple – the “it just works” company – wants to avoid. Google-owned Fitbit launched a study last year for some users.

Even with the Apple Watch 8 delay, the planned blood pressure feature isn’t being designed to detail specific systolic and diastolic readings, reports Gurman. It’s looking for trends to warn of hypertension (high blood pressure). This sounds similar to alerts sent by an Apple Watch 4 or later (but not the SE) when the ECG detects an irregular heartbeat or atrial fibrillation (AFib).

If you’re buying an Apple Watch 8, you’ll have to invest in a separate blood pressure sensor for the time being if you want to monitor for blood pressure.

No Apple Watch 8 blood sugar monitor

Apple Watch 8 rumors about a blood sugar monitor have also been reported but are even more premature. That’s become a rule of thumb for smartwatch speculation – it’s a lot more hopeful thinking rather than leaks grounded in reality.

As expected, Apple’s non-invasive blood sugar monitor several years away, reports Gurman, so diabetics will have to continue to rely on third-party glucose meters that can be tied to existing Apple Watch models and the iPhone Health app. The good news is Apple is said to be improving support for third-party blood sugar monitors.

Apple Watch 8 body temperature sensor

The third sensor in development is actually poised to launch with the Apple Watch 8. Apple has been working on a body-temperature sensor to aid fertility planning initially and expand use cases from there. Expect high body temperature alerts rather than taking body temperature measurements, notes Gurman.

New Apple Watch low-power mode

Moving beyond Apple Watch 8 sensors that are coming and now delayed, the WWDC keynote should reveal an Apple watchOS 9 update that comes with a much-needed low-power mode. Currently, Apple’s Power Reserve mode prolongs battery life by turning off all features except the current time. There’s no in-between.

An Apple Watch low-power mode could mimic what we see on the iPhone, where battery-draining features like screen brightness, push notifications and the always-listening “Hey Siri” could be dialed back. We should see the power reserve mode in the watchOS 9 betas and be able to test it right away on June 6 – if Apple doesn’t restrict it to the new Apple Watch 8 while touting better battery life.

Apple Watch 8 satellite connectivity

The Apple Watch 8 could finally bring about satellite connectivity, something we first heard about right before the Apple Watch 7 launched. It’s a new feature that was said to be destined for future Apple Watch and iPhone models. It would enable wearers to send emergency text messages, even out of cellular range.

Along with fall detection, satellite connectivity for sending SOS messages would help cement the Apple Watch as the company’s Swiss Army safety device. A use case for this feature might involve being in a crash or stuck overseas with spotty (or expiring SIM card) cellular connectivity after a robbery (maybe speaking from experience). First responders would be able to get your message.

Health and Workout watchOS 9 app updates

There are some new features coming to the always-expanding Health app on the iPhone care of the forthcoming iOS 16 update, and that ties into what you’ll see with watchOS 9 and Apple Watch 8. Again, we may see a sneak peek at WWDC in June.

Sleep tracking may be more refined while a new medicine management tool could send reminders of when to take pills. Gurman notes that the idea is to have Apple users scan their pill bottles into the Health app, but that not all features may be ready for launch.

The Workout app should continue to see new workout types and additional metrics in the watchOS 9 updates, while Apple is rumored to be a refreshing watch face of the Apple Watch. There’s still no third-party watch face support among the Apple Watch 8 leaks today, but maybe that’ll come to future Apple Watch models – along with the now-delayed blood pressure sensor and even more distant blood sugar monitor.

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